When you see on the covers of books about Mexico City a vast urban grid, the horizon of which is only hinted at by a colorless cloud of smog, you’re looking at Ciudad Nezahualcóyotl, Neza for short. The city is an autonomous municipality that is technically not within the Federal District, but just across its border in the state named -- clearly not in the interest of clarity -- Mexico. Still, Ciudad Neza is considered a part of the Mexico City metropolitan region, like Pasadena or Long Beach is to L.A.
Spent all day there with a local painter, and met a few artists and musicians. There is lots of creative activity in Neza, much of it with a political progressive bent, but most people in D.F. have a wild, misplaced fear of it for its rough reputation. To me Neza and its people felt sensible and fairly middle-class, although I'm told this is a relatively recent development. The image above is work enjoyed at the Centro Cultural Jose Marti, a place that reminded me of Self-Help Graphics & Art in East L.A.
Above, a view inside Neza's palacio de gobierno. The main stairwell features a large canvas painting by a local artist named Francisco Urbina. The piece, from 1983, gives a visual history of Neza from its pre-Colonial founding to its present-day hugeness. Check out the valiant, proud indigenous figure on the right. Faded murals adorn the outer walls of the government complex, which is shaped in some parts like a stepped pyramid.
The best part though was the plaza outside, where someone decided to start a business renting motorized play vehicles for kids bored brainless while they wait for parents to tend to bureaucratic business inside. Awesome:
* Much more to come in future writings.