On the secluded beach you can't help but wake up with the morning light. This is the sun rising over the Pacific. You read and write and play cards and swim and detoxify your lungs from the city air. At twilight, you sit and inhale the colors that the dusk makes when it meets the sea. Candles alight for dinner -- filete empanizado, coctel de camaron, icy Indios -- and watching the waves crash in the moonlight.