Intersections

Thanksgiving in Mexico City *

Above, a view of the turkey scramble when the the first of two birds finally appeared, past 11 p.m., this Thanksgiving night at an apartment in the Cuauhtemoc barrio of Mexico City.

There are plenty of hidden Thanksgiving rituals in D.F. For the second year in a row, we partook in turkey and fixings on the last Thursday of November at the home of John Hecht, Mexico correspondent for the Hollywood Reporter and a Lonely Planet author.

Here's an after-shot of the second big pavo, poor thing:

I'm thankful I don't have to be in the U.S. for Thanksgiving since moving here (Black Friday terrifies me). John's crowded and boozey dia de accion de gracias, potluck-style and totally casual, is a chance to see colleagues and acquaintances.

For many amigos mexicanos eager to assimilate a new quirk of American culture, it is also just another healthy excuse to party.

The hottest keyboard hook in ages, from the islands

A few months ago a friend studying medicine in Dominica came back to Mexico City and said that this is what everyone on the island was bumping in their rides. It's "Hold You" (or "Hold Yuh") by Gyption, a Jamacian reggae singer.

Just a few seconds in, and who isn't like, 'That's the best keyboard hook I've heard since like forever.' And then you get up and start dancing. At least that's how it went down over here.

Nicki Minaj, our Trinidadian dream via Queens, must've reacted the same way. Here's her remix. Los Rakas, too. The new Panamanian act out of Oakland did their twist on Gyption's original bounce, adding another nice layer.

All three: Yes, please.

Twin Shadow, the new wave of New Wave

Sometimes it sounds like The Cure, sometimes like Depeche Mode, sometimes like Duran Duran, even David Bowie, or The Smiths or Morrissey. Yet at nearly every moment in almost every track, the sound of Twin Shadow feels totally new.

Twin Shadow, reaching way back while at the same time sounding like something from way ahead, is the new wave of New Wave. It is a fully resolved sound, always the mark of excellence, and in my view the most promising and satisfying debut in a single act since TV on the Radio.

Above, the retro-ized video for "Castles in the Snow," one of the best tracks on Forget, the debut LP packed with good ones. (Looks like "Nadie es Inocente," doesn't it?)

The frontman, George Lewis Jr., was born in the Dominican Republic and raised in Florida, where he was sometimes "the only black kid."

Trippy light show on the Zocalo

One word on the "espectaculo de luces" happening every night on the Zocalo this past week: Wow. There is no other way to describe watching the Metropolitan Cathedral and the National Palace and the whole night sky above light up in the trippiest illuminations imaginable.

The "Yo Mexico" show is up on the plaza at 9 p.m. nightly until Nov. 23, in honor of the centennial of the Revolution. It's an off-the-charts huge production, with lights, audio, pyrotechnics, fireworks, and a whole chorus of live dancers. I'm wondering why more people haven't caught it.

Again, let me emphasize, it's trippy. And quite historically dubious in some parts. ... But that's a future post.

The pyramid gym in Long Beach

One of my favorite oddities of contemporary architecture, the Walter Pyramid at Cal State Long Beach, on 7 November 2010. The pyramid gym, built in 1994, is essentially hollow on the inside, up to the apex. The general fuction of the gym's pyramidal structure is hidden behind the mere statement of its existence; it's a pyramid for the sake of being a pyramid.

Ruben Ortiz-Torres is nodding right now.

We were here checking out the International Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu Federation world tournament, where my brother Sergio Hernandez became the 2010 purple belt featherweight champion. Above, my sister-in-law and nephews.

What was that thing?

Read more here.

Turning 30 on the border *

I'm breaking a rule about posting too many photos with me in them, but who cares, I'm 30 today! They tell me 30 is when you get to say, 'I can do whatever I want,' and it finally becomes true.

This is me at the Monte de los Olivos cemetery in Tijuana this morning. Came with my mom and cousin Alan to visit our muertos on my arrival from Mexico City. That's the imposing Cerro Colorado in the background. The wind is strong, the hot sun. Many memories here, bitter and yet also sweet.

Tijuana is as clean, modern, and orderly as ever. We had breakfast at La Espadaña -- fast becoming a custom for us when I come home on early morning flights -- and then I crossed the border on foot. The heart always quickens as I stand in line; obese people, people whose skin has seen too much sun-and-meth cocktail, ancient tattoos, drawling English, AMERICA!!

The customs agent was kind of enough to say, "Happy birthday!" after scanning my passport. It was the only time, I thought, that the border-crossing experience has made me smile genuinely.

More photos from Monte de los Olivos are here, here, and here.

It's very warm up here/down here. I've slept all afternoon and I want more of it. Have no plans tonight except family and a certain date with any icy local beer. I appreciate all the kind wishes. Thank you.

Three years

Monday, Nov. 1 marked three years since I moved to Mexico City. (I've been stuffing the face with so much pan de muerto, chocolate calaveras, and whole candied pumpkin since this weekend, I almost forgot.) Here's my post describing that day's events. This Thursday, I turn 30. The above track is a birthday wish from a friend. Here's another, and I love it. Thank you.