This is the quesadilla that they serve at the bar at Bosforo, a new mezcaleria in downtown D.F. Arturo, the friendly proprietor, is usually tending bar if you find yourself on Luis Moya at Independencia one hectic mid-week evening and walk in. When I'm there, famished, I often get the quesadilla.
And when I do, I usually stop and ponder the plate before me, thinking: 'This is a quesadilla from a more perfect future.'
The house dish at Bosforo is distinctly 'pre-Hispanic.' Arturo calls it "food from Anahuac," the original Aztec name for the place we now call Mexico. The barfood at Bosforo is noteworthy because it's what we might as well call indigenous fusion.
The Bosforo crew take a handmade blue-corn tortilla, lines it with fragrant hoja santa and white Oaxacan cheese, and fill it with chapulines. On the bar, there's always a fresh red chapulin salsa, homemade, still in the molcajete. They might serve it with whatever add-on dish comes with the house's nightly special, which changes every night, or a handful of fresh kumquats or mandarin oranges.
Always a struggle deciding between the regular quesadilla or whatever dish Arturo came up with that day. I don't even inquire too deeply on what it is; I already know I won't know what he's talking about.
"Tortitas de ahuetle con ayocotes." Yes, that's exactly what I want right now.
It was an incredible meal: Tiny waterbug eggs, in small patties, served with a side of ayocote, a beautiful native bean. The bug patties were delightful, similar in texture to caviar, and probably a delicacy of equal pedigree during the Aztec Empire. Is this what Cuauhtemoc was dreaming about when Cortes had his feet placed over a fire?
Bosforo is a mellow, hoodie joint. Condesa-like airs or pretentions are out of place, meaning there's almost no serving/being-served dichotomy. Neighbors meet up here, indie zines have parties, small presses. Walk in and someone might be playing their best from Brazil or Iran.
Thankfully, if you're not looking for it, you'll miss the bar from the street. But if you are looking, Bosforo is located at Luis Moya 31 just before Independencia, half-a-block down from a new Ecobici rack.
The Bosforo mezcales that I most covet are the "espadin amarillo" and the "chocolate." It finishes with a sizzling note of cacao. An extra FYI: Tambien curan su propio pulque.